V0-V10 Which Training Board is Best? Kilter vs TB2 (vs my homewall?)

Jun 9

Hooper’s Beta Ep. 154

Kilter Board vs. Tension Board: A Head-to-Head Climbing Session at Flux

Today we’re at Flux Training Center in San Diego, CA. We're testing out two of the biggest, most expensive, and increasingly popular boards in America: the Kilter Board and the Tension Board. The goal is to conduct an unbiased exploration of both boards, comparing comfort, fun, and functionality across a range of classic problems. In the end, I’ll share my personal preference and whether either board is good enough to replace my home wall.

First Impressions

The first climb felt like a standard jug haul. These felt like realistic V0s. Between the two boards, I slightly preferred the Kilter Board for that particular warm-up problem.

As we moved into V1 territory, things felt harder on both boards. While still accessible, the grade jump was noticeable and could be a challenge for newer climbers.

Visual Clarity & Lighting

The lighting setup on the Tension Board was noticeably better. The bright purple foot chips were easier to see, which made for a smoother climbing experience. It's a small detail, but one that earns Tension a point in usability.

Fixed vs. Adjustable Angles

We kept the Kilter Board at 40 degrees to match the fixed Tension Board. However, an adjustable board offers major advantages—being able to train at angles between 20 and 60 degrees helps with everything from warming up to simulating steep roof problems. If your gym has this option, that’s a big plus.

On Grading and Trying Hard

A big takeaway: Don’t get too hung up on the grades. You’ll often find V8s that are easier than V6s. Grades can be inconsistent, and trying a variety can actually help you improve faster. You don’t need to “earn” the right to try harder climbs.

Hold Texture and Comfort

When I first tried the Tension Board years ago, the black holds were overly grippy—almost sandpaper-like. But they seem to have worn in nicely. Personally, I prefer the feel of wood; it allows me to try harder without wrecking my skin.

App Experience

Both boards seem to use the same or very similar apps. They're easy to use once you get the hang of it. The flag feature lets you build circuits, though it’s not immediately intuitive. After a bit of exploration, it became a useful tool for planning sessions.

Mid-Grade Testing: V3 to V6

The holds on the Kilter Board stayed comfortable and ergonomic, even as problems progressed. Meanwhile, the Tension Board demanded more accuracy, power, and finger strength as the grades increased. From V3 to V6, I noticed that Tension did a better job of offering a consistent grade progression. Kilter's problems were fun, but the grades fluctuated a bit more.

Training Hacks

One tip I give clients: learn to visualize and memorize your problems. For example, on the MoonBoard, I don’t let clients use the lights until they can recall their sequence from memory. It’s a great skill for improving focus and efficiency on the wall.

Another tip: treat board spacing like a campus board. Most have 8-inch spacing between holds, so once you know your reach (e.g., "111" reach), you can plan moves more strategically.

General Comparison

Kilter Board: Better for exploring movement, variety, and having fun. It's forgiving, with holds that let you experiment and use creative footwork. Problems skew slightly easier and feel more ergonomic overall.
Tension Board: Demands more finger and upper-body strength. Grades are more consistent and progress logically. If you’re looking to push your limits or simulate outdoor cruxes, this board feels like a better training tool.

That said, I wouldn't trade my home wall for either board. There’s nothing better than customizing a setup to your exact needs. Still, between the standard board options out there, I’d lean toward one of these two over a MoonBoard or a generic spray wall.

Final Thoughts

If you’re aiming for outdoor performance and want a board that pushes you, the Tension Board is probably the better choice. It forced me to be more intentional with every move. However, the Kilter Board surprised me with how enjoyable and diverse the movement was, especially for training big spans and dynamic skills.

In terms of grading:

Tension Board: More consistent, smoother difficulty curve.
Kilter Board: Softer overall but denser in the V0–V6 range, which might be ideal for newer climbers.

Ultimately, it depends on your goals. If you’re climbing V10+ or aiming for elite outdoor performance, the Tension Board may help you get there. But for overall enjoyment, movement variety, and a more ergonomic session, I may find myself spending more time on the Kilter Board than expected—except for the hold color. Still not a fan of "dirty gray."

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Jason Hooper